Arriving in Mbale we were greeted by Míša, who is very much a key person at The Coffee Gardens. Míša became our guide, taking us from the hotel and up the mountain towards their washing station.
Arriving at the washing station at the lower part of Mt. Elgon, it quickly became clear just how much is going on there, and most importantly, how dedicated, knowledgeable and hardworking the team is. At peak season, this station alone receives up to 14 tonnes of coffee within four hours. They have two additional stations further up the mountain where they can weigh and purchase cherry, but getting coffee down from those elevations is challenging. The roads are bad or simply don't exist, so they rely on runners — men and women, many of them competitive long-distance runners, who quite literally run 50–60 kg sacks of cherry up and down roughly 1,000 metres of elevation, sometimes three times a day. Seeing the roads for myself, the steep mountains of Mt. Elgon, and hearing about these challenges really puts a lot into perspective about what it takes to move coffee around a mountain.
Coffee Gardens works with anywhere from 600 to 900 smallholder farmers, and those numbers shift constantly. There are many challenges in navigating a growing and emerging specialty coffee scene, like in Uganda, where a lot comes into play. The biggest are land ownership changes, internal politics, and situations where a producer you're working with one day might not be there the next. It was described to me as a kind of wild west — other buyers regularly try to poach producers by offering higher prices for a single transaction. The “wild west” scene of specialty coffee in Eastern Uganda really highlights the amazing work The Coffee Gardens is doing. The Coffee Gardens offer the smallholder producers in the area something far more valuable than a one-off high bidding price: a system built on transparency and complete access to information, traceability of every single stage or step in the purchasing process, yearly bonuses, off-season training, and the ability for producers to really plan their income with confidence.